Perfect Bra Size

This one's solely for the ladies. Bras: surveys assessing whether women currently wear the correct band and cup size indicates that 80% of us girls are hopeless when it comes to picking the right bra.  There are many great sites that explain the details of why, and how to fix this, but here's a compilation of the best parts.

The Basics:

Breasts should be considered in 2 parts: the volume of the breast itself, and the distance around the rib cage directly under the base of the breast. The volume part is the most important because the letter cup size changes drastically depending on the band size it's attached to.

Here's a picture of what I mean: these are ALL "D" cups! Don't be discouraged when your tape measurements say "You're a D cup" and yet you look nothing at all like Chesty Larue. 

30D, 32D, 34D, 36D and 38D bras
Fantastic photo courtesy of: http://blog.butterflycollection.ca/2012/05/bra-school-not-all-d-cups-are-same-size.html

The second part of a bra is the size of the band. This is where most ladies go wrong even when they find a cup that fits well.  Most of a bra's ability to support the breast volume comes from the proper fit of the band, not the straps.  Using a too-large band and very tight straps causes tension on the shoulders and they will dig into the skin. 

Measuring:

1. Use a cloth or paper measuring tape for this. You can print one out for free here: 
http://www.herroom.com/herroomtape.pdf
2. Remove your clothing and bra for these measurements. You want to measure *you* not your bra.
3. Bend forward so your back is level with the floor. Measure around your nipple line all the way around your torso. The measuring tape should be fat against the skin all the way around, but not so tight that you cause the breasts to deform. This will make sure you measure 100% of your breast tissue.
4. If your breasts have significant vertical hang when you're braless, take the measurement around your nipple line again while you are standing then average these two numbers. (Measurement 1 + Measurement 2, then divide that number by 2).
5. Standing upright, measure around your torso directly under the spot your breast meets your chest. This is where your band should sit, regardless of where your nipple line is.  Pull the tape snug but not so snug that your sides have any "muffin lines" (or sausage kinks as some call them). 

• For US bra sizing, use your actual band measurement + 4. If the tape says 30", then you wear a 34 band size in the US market. If you are buying bras in the UK then your band size is exactly what the tape reads.  

6.  Subtract your band size measurement from your nipple-line measurement. If the difference is less than 1 inch, you are an A cup, 1" = B cup; 2" = C cup, 3" = D cup, 4" = E cup, 5" = F, 6" = G cup, 7" = H cup, 8" = I cup; 9" = J cup, and 10" = K cup. (These are UK sizes, compare below for US equivalents).

As you can see, US sizes are rather confusing compared to UK sizing. This confusion makes it extra chalening to go up/down in the same bra and find an accurate fit. For this tutorial and the sake of simplicity, use the UK sizing model first, then reference this chart if you do not know which US bra is equivalent. 

The Right Band:

The right band will be snug, but you should still be able to slip a finger underneath without your chest being pinched by the elastic.

The band should sit flat against your breast bone in front with no gap. 

• If it's hovering, the cups are too small.

The band should be level with the floor all the way around with no arching upward in the back.

• If it's arching, the band is too large or the straps are much too tight.
• Loosen the straps. If this makes your breasts sag or makes the cup wrinkle, your band is too large.

The design of the band should help lift your bust even before you tighten the straps.The perfect band for larger volume and breasts that require support will be wide and resistant to folding or rolling up when pulled around the body.  Light duty and narrow bra bands are best left to those who don't yet need support.

The Right Cup:

This is where volume matters. Forget about cup sizes for a moment and consider this chart: 

Each color represents a cup volume; 32A being the same as 30B and 28C. 

• If your tape measurements say you are a 34C, then your breasts will fit similarly into any of the light purple bra sizes. If the band on a particular 34C model is too tight try a 36B in the same bra. If it is too loose, you try on a 32D.

• These are sometimes called "sister sizes" because they are the same cup sewn onto different bands. 

Armed with this chart, you should be able to get most bras to fit you nicely just by going up/down in band size until the cup conforms to your breast.  However, some styles work better on certain breast types and you may have to try on a few styles to find one that you like most. 

Bra Types and Fit:

Firm round breasts have the most varied options; the style depends largely on what you are wearing over it. 

• Smooth surface bras go under thin or clinging clothing.  
• Dimensional lacy embroidered bras go well under everything else. 

Breasts with poorly defined shape do marvelously in underwires and molded foam cups. These will allow your breast to "pour" into the cup it and everything will be well supported and made to appear flawless.  These also provide the most modesty (nipple hiding) and are invisible under thin fabrics like T-shirts and thin sweaters. 

Soft-form (thin, stretchy, lycra, spandex) bras are best for smaller busted ladies, typically those with volume in the light red, light orange, light green, and light blue colors. These provide very little support, but improved comfort for some.  Average and larger breasts look best in more structured bras.

Balconette bras (or demi-bras) flatter those with defined upper breasts. If your fullness is mainly below the nipple line, this style might not suit you. 

Full coverage bras are good for those with very large breasts and ladies with significant vertical hang over the bra band. These bras are built more like a corset, with the added structure required to reshape and support more weight. These usually have wider more comfortable straps, too. Just be sure your band size is small enough; those straps aren't meant to be your main support!

Uneven Cup Sizes:

All women have some breast asymmetry, but some women have a cup or more difference between their left and right breasts. 

Choose a bra that fits your largest breast then add cutlets (bra inserts) to the loose cup to fill it out. It is better to fill out the loose cup than to spill out of one side. 

Fit Troubleshooter Flow Chart: